London to Amsterdam
Many years ago, we started the twins’ Grand Tour, except we based our trip on a favourite David Nicholls book (Us), which goes through the art backwards. We’ve done another section each year, and this year’s trip covered Belgium and the Netherlands — two weeks of making up inappropriate captions for beloved paintings, Liege waffles, and dodging bicycles.
But we started in London because the twins suggested this trip as something I could look forward to in the fall while they were away at college. They did nothing to plan it beyond listing the cities, but I loved the idea of starting in London because it would be familiar, AND I could go on a book-buying spree.
Our big splurge was a 30-person tour of Buckingham Palace. No photos because they do not allow you to take pictures inside, but they DO give you a photo book at the end of your tour. It was like being in a Crown episode (and, yes, now when I watch The Crown, I can tell exactly where they were in the palace or whether.)
After a few days in London at the National Gallery, Portrait Gallery, and British Museum, we jumped on the Eurostar and headed to Amsterdam. When I was little, I had a camp counselor sign my camp autograph book with “Score some smoke in Amsterdam” (because that was apparently a normal thing to say to a child in the 1980s). While we did not score some smoke, we did eat at Upstairs Pannenkoeken, the smallest restaurant in Europe.
We toured Anne Frank House and the Jewish Quarter.
We saw art at the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Moco Museum, and Stedelijk Museum.
When you travel in winter, you can get alone time with The Night Watch.
We toured Rembrandt’s house and took a canal ride to see some of the Amsterdam Light Festival.
But mostly, we dodged bicyclists. They whip around the bend, and it never felt like a safe time to cross the bike path. You know how the Muppets run with their arms flailing over their heads? Imagine that energy, but on a bike. That is Amsterdam. And we loved the city so much and could have spent many, many, many more weeks there. But more Flemish painters were waiting for us in Belgium.
To be continued…
2 comments
Oooh, I’m so glad you’re writing about this! Eurostar all the way, baby. It’s so much better than ferries or flying, isn’t it? (Only been on it once, but still.)
I first went to Amsterdam in December. 19 years ago. (eek!) In winter, the skies hang low, and it’s a completely different vibe to when I went back (briefly) in June, with leaves on the trees, blue sky, etc. Almost like a different city. I liked the gloominess of it in winter. The lights. And of course, the lack of crowds.
That sounds absolutely awesome! I look forward to traveling more once I retire. That reminds me, though – gotta ask my sister if she wants to watch my dogs for 2 weeks. We’re going on vacation, but then the week after we return is the eclipse and we’re going to her house for that.